The Extraordinary Triumph of Chef Ana Roš
- 2 days ago
- 5 min read
Why the World Treks to Slovenia to Taste Her Love of Nature and Place
Like something from a fairy tale, Slovenia’s Soča Valley possesses an almost ethereal beauty.
Stretching from the heart of the Julian Alps to the Italian border, the luminous emerald waters of the Soča River wind their way from the rocky slopes, where edelweiss flowers bloom, to the rolling pastures where world-famous Lipizzaner horses run.
It is here, in this extraordinary landscape, that a quiet culinary revolution has taken root.
At its center is Hiša Franko, a restaurant shaped by the philosophy of Ana Roš, one of the most influential chefs in modern gastronomy.
A former Alpine skier and would-be diplomat who taught herself to cook, Roš has transformed this remote restaurant into a global destination. It is not only celebrated for its cuisine but for its deep connection to the surrounding environment.
Roš has transformed the remote restaurant into a global destination. It is not only celebrated for its cuisine but for its deep connection to the surrounding environment.
Located just outside the town of Kobarid, Hiša Franko is housed in a guesthouse that dates back to 1861.
Grounded in local ecosystems, biodiversity, and sustainable food systems, its menus are built from what the Soča Valley provides. From wild herbs and mushrooms gathered in nearby meadows and forests, to river-caught trout and cheeses made by farmers high in the mountains, the valley is its pantry.
“I believe the Soča Valley is the greatest source of inspiration for Hiša Franko’s cuisine and for the way I think about food,” Roš told The Earth & I. “Everything is rooted in seasonality and micro-locality.
“Around 95% of our fruits, vegetables, and wild plants come from an incredibly small area. In fact, when you stand on one of the nearby mountain peaks, you can almost see every place we source from.”
“Around 95% of our fruits, vegetables, and wild plants come from an incredibly small area. In fact, when you stand on one of the nearby mountain peaks, you can almost see every place we source from.”
That deep-rooted connection to place, however, predates Roš herself. Long before she took the reins, the restaurant relied on local producers—not out of philosophy but “a necessity,” she explained.
“When I first arrived, my former mother-in-law, who was the chef at the time, already worked closely with what she could find around the restaurant,” she said. “She used wild blueberries when they were in season, foraged mushrooms, and even bear meat from local hunters.
“The truth is, Hiša Franko is so remote from most Slovenian cities that suppliers rarely reach us. Being local—and therefore seasonal—wasn’t a stylistic choice but a necessity. We had to rely on what the land around us provided, and over time, that became a defining part of who we are.”
That philosophy has brought global recognition.
In 2017, Roš was named the World’s Best Female Chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants. In 2023, Hiša Franko became the first Slovenian restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars.
It was also among the first restaurants in the country to receive the Michelin Green Star in 2020, an award specifically for establishments at the forefront of sustainable gastronomy. It has successfully retained this distinction every year, including in the 2025 Michelin Guide.
Hiša Franko became the first Slovenian restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars. It was also among the first restaurants in the country to receive the Michelin Green Star.
“I believe one of the greatest achievements any chef can reach is earning three red Michelin stars and a Green Star,” Roš said.
“The red stars represent the highest level of culinary excellence and a certain world of luxury. The Green Star is equally meaningful, but very different—it represents true sustainability,” she said, adding: “It recognizes chefs who may not work with luxurious ingredients, but who elevate simple, honest products into something extraordinary.”
For Roš, sustainability is not an add-on but a guiding principle embedded in every aspect of the restaurant’s work.
“We focus strongly on reducing food waste, working strictly with seasonal and local ingredients, and collaborating closely with the local community,” she said.
“We focus strongly on reducing food waste, working strictly with seasonal and local ingredients, and collaborating closely with the local community.”
In recent months, Hiša Franko has added a composting system to its rear garden. “We have a dedicated person overseeing it and sharing knowledge with the entire team, ensuring that everyone feels involved and responsible for the process,” she said.
The valley has benefited from the restaurant—the sustainability mindset is being widely credited with boosting jobs and tourism in the region. In fact, Roš was appointed an Ambassador of Gastronomic Tourism by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) because of her efforts to revitalize the valley through sustainable food tourism and local sourcing.
Indeed, Roš’ ability to work with and inspire others seems to be as innate as her passion for the culinary arts. Fluent in seven languages, she trained in international and diplomatic studies in Italy, seemingly destined for a career in diplomacy before life took a very different turn.
That global perspective now informs her latest venture. In March 2026, she opened a new restaurant, JAZ, in Poreč, Croatia, on the Istria peninsula. Located along the seaside promenade in the heart of the old town, its menu is once again shaped by place—this time, the Adriatic Sea.
“I know Istria very well, so nothing here feels entirely new to me,” she said. “I like to work a lot with vegetables, and I believe one of the biggest opportunities lies in foraging—something Istrians rarely do beyond wild asparagus.”
The region, she noted, offers an abundance of exceptional ingredients: “Some of the best tomatoes in the world, traditional homemade pastas, beautiful olive oils, and, of course, truffles. And once you move to the coast, you enter a different world, with exceptional scallops, sole, and wild oysters.”
Looking ahead, Roš remains both hopeful and cautious about the future of sustainable fine dining.
“I honestly hope it will survive. My generation has spent more than 20 years working to show that nature itself can be the greatest luxury. I would hate to see people—guests and chefs alike—losing sight of that.”
And for aspiring chefs hoping to follow a similar path, her advice is simple: “Keep your eyes open—and don’t stop dreaming.”
*Mark Smith is a journalist and author from the UK. He has written on subjects ranging from business and technology to world affairs, history, and popular culture for the Guardian, BBC, Telegraph, and magazines in the United States, Europe, and Southeast Asia.
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